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You must follow the installation and maintenance manuals to receive the utmost benefits/lifetime of your flooring.

Make sure you have sufficient cartons to get the job done, always add 5% designed for waste materials. Place the unopened packages of flooring in the center of the area 24 to 48 hours just before beginning installation. Usually do not open up cartons until you will be ready to begin installation To get the best appearance and utility; we recommend you randomly mix panels from different cartons.

Color Difference between person panels or packs are regular consideration in Natural Flooring, therefore to best flooring Augusta GA maximize appearance it is usually wise to install the flooring in natural light (laying at night time is not recommended). Cork and real wood are both products of character. Difference in the framework, color, and patterns (actually in the same carton), are all part of the natural splendor of the material.

Cork or Real wood Flooring is not ideal for damp and steamy areas.

Inspect all panels prior to installation. It really is your responsibility not to install defective panels.

All End-Joints of Panels should be staggered 8" from joints of the prior row

As with all products from nature sunlight could cause color variations.

An expansion space of at least 3/8" must be used throughout, not merely between walls and additional flooring, but also around door frames, pipes, or other set objects. With a room size greater than 33'(planks laid length smart) or 26' (planks laid crossways), expansion joints should be included. The buildings own expansion joints must be taken in consideration. These expansion areas can be protected with baseboard and/or trim.

Subfloor Specifications

The top of subfloor must be sound and level within 1/8" within an 8-ft. radius. The subfloor should be clean and dry.

Concrete subfloors should never contain more than 3-lbs. moisture (1.5 lbs. with radiant warmth systems) on a dry-weight basis (calcium chloride check). Moisture content of timber subfloors ought to be between 6-10% Dampness Content (MC).

Relative humidity range at the job site ought to be 45% - 65%; Space Temperature setting ought to be between 65F-80F degrees.

Job Site Evaluation

Before installing inspect the work site thoroughly. Determine if the grade, subfloor and subfloor circumstances are suitable. In homes with crawl spaces, basis vents must provide cross ventilation without dead surroundings space. Vents should be located through the entire foundation with opening area add up to 1 ½% of the square region within the crawl space. If excessive moisture exists underneath the home, you need to lay a 6-mil black polyethylene or foam underlayment moisture barrier (available on this site on the ground in the crawl space below the installation area.

Preparation

Inspect the subfloors to make sure they are sound and level

Real wood subfloors: Inspect the wood subfloor to determine that it is sound and level. Make any needed maintenance and remove or set any protruding fingernails, staples or screws. Re-nail any loose areas or areas with squeaks. If the subfloor sags, inspect the joists below for twists or other weaknesses and restoration. Sand or plane any high areas, fill up any low areas. At this time, door jambs should be undercut to avoid tough cuts. Also be sure to leave proper growth under door jambs.

Concrete subfloors: On or below grade concrete subfloors are usually acceptable if an effective moisture barrier is certainly installed. Be sure that, as a minimum, any concrete subfloor reaches least 50-60 days old before installing a cork/wood ground over it. Check moisture articles by taping a 2-ft. x 2-ft. square of polyethylene film to the slab in 3 or 4 locations and, when possible, place a lamp or additional heat resource over the poly every day and night or carry out a calcium chloride check. Signs of unwanted moisture include: discolored concrete, cloudy film or real drinking water droplets on the underside of the poly. Fill any voids or low spots in the subfloor with a self-curing leveling compound. Make sure it really is fully cured before proceeding with the cork/ wood installation. 15-lb. Roofing paper can be appropriate for leveling small depressions in the ground. Cut to the form of the depression and stack in layers to level the area.

Other subfloors: Cork/Solid wood Floors can be installed over a number of existing flooring including: vinyl sheet or tiles, rubber tiles, linoleum, terrazzo, ceramic tile, or other wood flooring. The same leveling and moisture requirements apply and the existing floor should be sound.

Prior to start laying CORK/Real wood Flooring in a below quality installation (basements, etc.) a 1/64" (0.2mm) polyethylene film must be laid Overlap the film by 6" and seal the seams with duck tape. Also, in below quality installations wrap the film up the wall structure.

Begin Laying

Measure the area, this enables you to determine if the last plank in the 1st row will probably be shorter that 12". If this is the case, the 1st plank in row ought to be shortened to maximize the overall stability of the flooring.

If the starting wall is not straight, spacers or batten should be used to insure the first row is straight. After laying the first three rows these spacers can be removed (however, you should always leave a 3/8" expansion space)

Lay the first plank in the right corner of the area with tongue-part towards the wall. Do not forget to use spacer wedges along all wall space or other fixed factors in the room. Insert the end joint of the next plank precisely into the end joint of the 1st plank. This purpose, it must be done at an position of approximately 20°-30° decreasing with light pressure the panel set up. Continue installing the first row.

With the next row, start with the leftover little bit of plank from the previous row if the plank is at least 12" long (Note: Stagger end joints in adjunct rows by at least 8".. If not really a new plank should be cut. Always maintain the spacing from the wall structure. Using the leftover plank from the initial row, beginning on the proper, lower this plank in place at approximately 20°-30° angle with the main one in the 1st row. Lower another plank in this row in place at the same position. This is achieved by lifting up the front side of plank by approximately (3"-4") - together with previously laid plank from the same row - after that lay in place with minor pressure with the planks from the prior row. After the fitting the whole row, make use of a tapping block (gently) to close any gaps between panels. Preceded with the laying row by row.

If you used spacers or batten to keep the first row straight, following the 3-4 row take them off, still leaving the required spacing on all walls. Make sure the spacing is held around fixed points (walls, door frames, etc.). The flooring must float openly.

If you can not engage the joints of planks under door frames, kick plates, etc. and pull bar may be used. Remove all of the spacers and install all foundation boards and trims ensuring the floor can move openly underneath. Never attach base boards or trim directly to the flooring.